China/Technology Failure

We got the camera working but now there is trouble with my laptop! We are a two-laptop family - three computers total if you count the desk version back in Maine - four if you count the one Silas gets to use at his school in Maine. Unfortunately, upon our return to Vietnam from China I find that I cannot log into my laptop - I get the log-in screen but when I enter my password the log-in box gives me a little shimmy and shake and refuses to advance further. I think it is rebelling against the ancient itunes list that I really have been meaning to update because I'm sick of those songs too!

Despite the pollution in Beijing and Xian, the Great Wall and Terra Cotta soldiers were amazing. China has centuries of history that we do not, and it seems as a result a history of story-telling has evolved. When you see these monuments to mankind, you don't just get the facts and figures of when it was built, how much material it took, and how many died doing it - there are stories connected to the construction and era of them. One of our guides also spoke of the "history problems" in China - Tibet for example has a "history problem" along with a few of the ancient dynasties and the perceived success/failure of the Cultural Revolution. I think we do the same thing with US history except we haven't evolved to the point of calling the discrepancies "history problems". We're still a young country and still in denial!

We wrapped up the trip with a visit to one of Hal's friends in Hong Kong. What a city! I would like to return some day. The skyscrapers rise from the mountains of volcanic rock that comprise the island. It is a clean. beautiful and vibrant place with an unbelievable public transportation system. We'll post pics and a bit more commentary when we get my laptop back tomorrow - turns out it is a keyboard failure.

Vast

We landed in Beijing and the plane taxied...over bridges...across major runways...forever...to the gate. We strolled off the plane, down the hallway, farther down the hallway, even farther yet...to the train. We took the train around the airport...over bridges...through terminals...where we got off and walked...and walked...and walked to baggage claim. Yes, the airport is vast and you get a nice walk on the way to collect your luggage and get to the taxi stand!

We've used "points" to reserve our room in the Haidian District at a great place called aloft. It has a hip, trendy feel - yet nice for families. We like the game area with billiards table, foos ball, board games, wii, and computer banks. Across the lobby is a self-service snack area - affordably priced beverages, sandwiches, fruit and other small snacks. There is a small pool and workout room as well. Great staff and a relaxing, low key atmosphere.

Though forewarned about the air quality, were still shocked to see the haze in the sky Tuesday morning. Actually, compared to today (Wednesday) Tuesday was quite clear. So again we are in a place where you cannot drink the water, and it seems that soon you will not be able to breathe the air. Where is our power as humans to change this? The major contributors to the pollution mostly live here - are they used to it? Do they think it is not so bad? As the highest life form why do we allow our living conditions to deteriorate to this level? What does this say about us as a human race? What does this say about our survival?

Okay, enough on global issues. If you are ever here you should see the Chaoyang Acrobat Show. These performers are quite unbelievable! Amazing feats of balance and flexibility, great costumes and a never-seen-before level of stage lighting. We spent a lovely hour visiting the panda exhibit at the zoo. They are just the cutest animals! We had a nice family chat about what makes them more attractive and endearing than other bears - is it their cuteness? Their vulnerability? The human qualities they exhibit when eating, sleeping, or playing? After the pandas we taxied to the east gate of The Forbidden City where...the camera failed us and we had to go to...film. Remember film? It doesn't download to the computer, and you have to guess as to what exactly you are photographing as you peer through a tiny square to try to frame the photo.

More later on The Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square, and Chairman Mao, it is time to pack for our trip to the Great Wall, then a train to Xian to see the Terracotta Warriors. Oh, and the camera is working again - all spiffed up with a new battery and a new memory card.

Lucy On Asia

Faithful followers of the blog might have noticed that Hal's parents, Lucy and Hal Sr. (aka Luli and Gumps), joined the Phillips Vietnam Adventure for awhile. On February 22, we got to Ho Chi Minh City after 2 days in Tokyo, where our highlight was the 5:30 am tuna auction at the world's biggest fish market. We were wide awake at 4 am, so why not?! (Had breakfast at McDonalds, the only thing open so early.)

Spent 3 days in HCMC, getting used to the time change and the HEAT, lolling in the pool at the apt. complex and having wonderful Vietnamese food. Then we flew 1000 miles north to Hanoi on the first of the side-trips that Hal Jr. had arranged. From there we drove to Halong Bay--seeing lots of rice paddies, small towns and HUGE factories--for an overnight cruise. Back in HCMC, we rested (and saw the water puppets one night), then flew to Dalat. It's in the central highlands and cooler, so Hal Sr. played his only round of Asian golf. After a pit-stop in HCMC, the whole family went to Siem Reap to see Angkor Wat. Even hotter there! But our Sofitel was cool and lovely, and a nice driver took us three times to the amazing temples.

The Vanderlips then returned to HCMC while we went to Bangkok for 4 days. Hal had reserved all our hotels in Viet Nam, but we found our own in Tokyo and Bangkok. The Old Bangkok Inn was almost too funky: our bed was in a loft, so we had to climb stairs in the night, etc. But we were too lazy to move, and the place grew on us...We saw the city with guides and by ourselves. Besides its gorgeous architecture, we especially remember the crazy canal boats, the birthstone ring we bought for my 70th birthday, and a riverside dinner with two friends from college. One is Thai, the other an American who's lived in Thailand 40 years.

After Thailand, we spent a day in HCMC: so nice to rest and feel taken care of! Then we went to Hue and Hoi An, our last destinations. In Hue, the imperial capital, Jim Sullivan showed us the famous tombs and also a new office for Mandarin Media. We went on our own to the Citadel, then had dinner with Jim and his wife. Next day, we took a train to Danang, through mountains to the sea, then drove to Hoi An. We stayed at the Life Resort, my favorite. (All our Vietnamese hotels were lovely--esp the ones harking back to French times--but the Life Resort was so simple and quiet...Maybe I was just getting TIRED!)

Back to HCMC from Hoi An, we got ready to fly home and had our last dinner with the Ketts, who'd just arrived. We had 4 days seeing old friends around LA and got to Boston March 22. Now we are back in our "comfy rut" culling photos and wondering how we actually made that wonderful trip! We never would have managed it without Hal and Sharon--and it was such fun to see them in HCMC, with Silas and Clara, all having such a good time there. What a great experience it's been...

Hue & Hoi An

Last weekend we ventured to the middle of the "s" that forms the shape of Viet Nam and had a brief but lovely tour of Hue and Hoi An. We started in Hue - Asian home of Mandarin Media and the Sullivan family on a seasonal basis. We spent a lovely afternoon touring the Citadel - a 200 year-old multiple walled city and former powerhouse of the country. Also the place where Thuy Sullivan spent her formative years. The ancient city is quite compelling with its gabled rooftops and elaborate gates. I highly recommend our accommodations - when you enter La Residence you will like you have stepped into the height of the art deco era.

Saturday we piled into our 15-passenger van along with the Sullivan family and headed through Da Nang (China Beach for those of you old enough to remember) to spend the day at the Nam Hai where Hal and Jim had a meeting, and where everyone has stayed except Hal, before going on to the Life Resort in Hoi An. The Nam Hai is lovely and very exclusive, however if money is an object for you I might suggest the Life Resort. Great hotel, great room, great price.

Hoi An is filled with french colonial architecture, tailors, and good food at places like the Mango Rooms and the Cargo Club. While dining at the Mango Rooms we enjoyed watching a riverfront parade and later Silas released paper lanterns on the river. With some insight from Thuy Clara and I ventured out to Thu Thuy Tailors to have an au dai (pronounced ow-yeye) made for Clara, along with a spring jacket.

All in all a restful weekend for the Mandarin Media families!

Tourist Visa to China

Few times have I felt more inept than trying to attain a tourist visa for our planned trip to China - we leave April 6 (maybe). It is almost like there is a book with rules and instructions that are being followed, but there isn't a copy of it for the public. Or, more likely, I'm just looking in the wrong place for the instructions!... Monday: Had the wrong hours for the visa office - only open 8:30 - 11:00 Mon.-Fri. Tuesday: sent away - the photos were wrong. Took new photos and... Wed: 1st question - is this your family? Where are they? They seemed to be willing to let that one go 2nd question: You need to go make copies of all of these documents (copy shop only two blocks away - so far so good) 3rd: your husbands passport is out of blank visa pages - you need to go to the US embassy to get new blank pages. Okay. No one knows where the US embassy is - they think it is near the Sofitel Hotel. Call Hal - who is in a meeting, and tell him to meet me there. Lucky for me the taxi knows where the embassy is. Get to the embassy and find I cannot wait outside - I have to go across the street. It isn't safe to wait on the sidewalk directly in front of the embassy. I move but don't ask why because I'm here for 6 more weeks (5 in country if we manage to get the tourist visas), feeling pretty safe, and don't actually want to know. Hal makes it to the Sofitel and calls to ask me where the embassy is. I didn't find the Sofitel so I don't have an answer - he has to ask someone at the Sofitel. Turns out it is a block down so it is nearby! We make it into the embassy and after a short wait Hal gets his new passport pages. Phew. We're going to Hue this weekend and need our passports to fly so we can't return to the consulate tomorrow - the plan is for all of us to show up Tuesday morning and expedite using express service. Having only spent every morning of the week there, I can't wait to go back next week! I know, I know I can feel the love - you are all thinking "oh, poor Sharon, what a hassle" LOL.

You want velvet?

So Silas and I went downtown the other day to pick up the Cambodian stringed instrument, the trol, that was broken in transit back from Siem Reap. After retrieving it we went up the street to the Ben Thanh Market, a sprawling but roofed warren of stalls where anything and everything are for sale, pending negotiations. You haggle for most everything here. It’s an art, and you realize that any sale must satisfy both parties. As a buyer, you do it because you need to feel good about your purchase, that you’re not being taken — even if the difference between being taken and not is a buck or two. I don’t enjoy it but I don’t dislike it either. It’s a challenge, and it’s a good skill for the kids to see and learn. We bought some sun glasses, looked for a belt, then moved on to a sandal search. What we would call a sandal or flip-flop the Vietnamese call a slipper. They are everywhere on sale. If you look long and hard enough, they have a sameness of style. You’re better off just seeing a pair and buying it and not searching and searching for some pair that seems unique. Those are hard to find. In any case, I was buying Silas a pair and haggling with the old woman in the tall. I had her on the run — down to the 150,000 dong they were were, having started at nearly double that. Then Silas interjects, “Dad, just give her 180,000.” I looked at him, then looked at her and said, “Is he with you?” She laughed and we paid 180,000. Then I bought a pair for myself down the lane and he did it again — interceded on the seller’s behalf! I told him later, in no uncertain terms, that the humor had passed. No more of that. When you’re buying, you can pay what you want, I told him. I forgot to mention that when we picked up the trol, the folks in the music shop admired it. Silas bought that on his on. Started at US$25 but eventually got it down to $18. They seemed to think we got a deal.

Boys Weekend

We can’t blame Silas for coming away from this Boys Weekend a bit disappointed. It was floated as a motorbike ride up Highway 1 between Nha Trang, the old French seaside playground, and finishing at the Life Resort Quy Nhon, a MM client I had never seen. We planned to break the trip in half by staying one night at L’Isle de Baleine, a sorta primitive but drop-dead gorgeous and totally remote island esort lying less than a mile from one of the longest strips of natural dunesland I’ve ever seen outside Ireland. In any case, the motorbikes were a no-go — several Russians turned a bus over on this same road last week, and no foreigners are allowed to drive themselves on anything for the foreseeable future, not even mopeds. Then we tried to SCUBA on Whale Island and they balked at Silas’ mildly asthmatic history, insisting on a doctor’s wavier we couldn’t possibly obtain in the time we had there. Then we got to Quy Nhon with every intention of renting mopeds in Quy Nhon City for a run-about — but all they had were four-gear motorbikes, not the one-speed, automatic mopeds we’d been expecting and Silas had ridden before. A letdown, but we did sample some incredible scenery up the coast, swim in South China Sea at three stunning locales, hike, play pool, gorge ourselves and basically hang out with our often genial travel compatriots, Scott and Jim. We got home Monday and Silas needs a hair cut. I think we’ll find some mopeds and drive to the street barber together.